Eco Focus - ECOCLUB, International Ecotourism Monthly, Issue 74

The idea of ecotourism and community based tourism in Kazakhstan is new, an effort to address the problems associated with emerging from decades of living within a Soviet system. Kazakhstan is not a poor country, quite the opposite, with massive oil reserves and other natural resources. Unfortunately, the money earned is staying in the hands of the few, and not being spread throughout the country. So, the poor villages stay poor. At least in Soviet times there was a system of social welfare and employment for all. Now people in the remote rural areas are trying to eke out a living and are living a hand to mouth existence. Seen at a distance there is something attractive about this simple life, but all societies need some financial exchange, and people are usually happier if they have some control over earning it.

For this reason, Community Based Ecotourism in Kazakhstan is being developed. It is seen as a regeneration tool, offering a means to sustainable livelihoods. It is not going to be easy, but those involved are beginning to see the benefits and think that it is worth the effort.

Before I go any further, perhaps I should say where Kazakhstan is. This little heard about landlocked republic, the ninth largest country in the world, is bordered by Russia, China, Kyrgyzstan, Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan. A member of the CIS after gaining independence from the Soviet Union in 1991, it stands in the heart of Central Asia and is building a future based largely on oil. The government sees tourism playing a part in development too, and those concerned with the environment, the revival of communities, and keeping the culture intact want to be involved, recognizing the great growth worldwide in ecotourism.

It will never be easy to market ecotourism, or any type of tourism, here. The vast size of the country is a barrier. While trundling across the steppe in an ancient train may sound romantic, it can be frustratingly slow. Obtaining tickets can be problematic, and can not be done before registration. The powers that be do not make travel easy, with visas, not available at land borders, being needed by nearly everyone, and registration also a requirement. Compared with other Central Asian countries prices are quite high. In efforts to try and "Package" Central Asia, while avoiding the damage that badly managed tourism has brought to communities in many parts of the world, including Kazakhstan is difficult. Neighbouring Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan are cheaper and have more obviously marketable attractions.

For all the difficulties, the effort is worth it, particularly taking time to get to the villages where a network of homestays is slowly being built up. The hospitality of the people is justly renowned, and here can be found the real experience that so many look for when travelling. The dhombra and dancing shows are for the traveller's benefit, but they feel part of life too, not a special performance. People will sing and dance together when there isn't a tourist paying them. The food gives a taste of Kazakh life. It will almost certainly be grown by the host, or a neighbour.

Kazakhs are renowned horsemen, with children riding almost as soon as they can walk. People are far more likely to own a horse and cart than a car. This means that the possibility of trying out riding skills, and getting off the beaten track, is high. You will just need to learn sign language, but then communication is far more than language.

There is a great range of fauna and flora to be enjoyed- the elusive snow leopard, ibex, bears, and wolves. Unfortunately hunting remains a popular sport, though efforts are being made to limit it. Poaching too is a major problem, but the management of the national parks, a major draw for eco tourists, is becoming more efficient as international involvement and interest grows. In Spring time the steppe that looks so barren in the dry summer is abundant with flowers. "Flower watching" is popular among local people and visitors alike.

On a recent training course in Southern Kazakhstan I was able to witness a little of the positive effect that community based tourism is having. There were tangible financial gains, and improvements being made to the village infrastructure. The homestay providers spoke happily of how much they had enjoyed welcoming people from different nationalities into their homes and sharing information and ideas about each others cultures. Economic factors came first- they would rather their children went to school than toiled on the land at a far too early age, but they happily embraced the opportunity of finding out about other cultures. This, I think, is when ecotourism is most enjoyable and effective. To be involved in the challenge of making it happen in Kazakhstan, a country of great beauty and interest, but lacking in well known or immediately obvious tourist attractions, is an opportunity I will always be grateful for.

Problems are likely to remain- the lure of the cities for young people, who want results immediately, is one difficulty that small communities, however appealing to the visitor, will always be faced with. It will be some time before they will be able to understand the benefits, and indeed may not welcome the influx of noisy foreigners into their home.

Rushing ahead with enthusiasm and without planning is also a danger, but the foundations are being firmly established here, and changes are happening slowly. This is one of the advantages of being a fairly late arrival in the world of tourism- Kazakhstan can learn from the mistakes of others.

It is unlikely that ecotourism in Kazakhstan will ever become big business, but that is probably a good thing. What is needed is enough development to improve the lifestyles of the rural poor, but not so much that the way of life is too much changed.

Ideas from people who have been in the business for far longer than we have would be very welcome.

Ms Helen Lunn is on a Voluntary Service Overseas (Development agency) assignment, working for the Ecotourism Resource Information Centre of Kazakhstan in Almaty
Web: www.ecotourism.kz Email

Thenmala Ecotourism Project: A planned ecotourism destination in India
by Santhosh. P. Thampi *

The state of Kerala, 'God's own country', forming part of the Western Ghats in India contains a protected area of 2,324 square kilometres in two National parks and 12 wildlife Sanctuaries. The Western Ghats of Kerala with its tropical forest ecosystem provides a natural advantage for development of Ecotourism. The Tourism Department of Government of Kerala has taken steps to give focused attention to ecotourism in the State. A separate ecotourism wing has been created to give policy support for the development of the ecotourism destinations in the State. An ecotourism project (Thenmala Ecotourism) has been formulated in and around Shenduruney Wildlife Sanctuary with the co-operation of departments such as Forest, Irrigation and Tourism. This Wildlife Sanctuary is of about 100 square kilometres and has large varieties of flora and fauna. Thenmala, located at about 72 kilometres from Thiruvananthapuram, the State Capital of Kerala, is a small village at the foothills of Western Ghats and predominantly a forest area. Thenmala means 'honey hills'. The honey collected from Thenmala forest region is of good quality and of high medicinal value because of the unique floristic composition of the forests. The village is the focal point of small community-led ecotourism developments within a radius of 50kilo meters.

"Thenmala Ecotourism" has been conceived as a first planned ecotourism destination in India and the initial stages of implementation is completed. The degraded forest area, in the outskirts of the Sanctuary is maintained as a familiarization zone. Eco-friendly General Tourism is planned in the periphery of the sanctuary so that pressure of tourism will not affect the sanctuary. The real ecotourism is to take place in sanctuary and only ecotourists are encouraged for that. Others can experience the eco-friendly products such as small nature trails, elevated walkway through canopies, mountain biking etc.

Facilities such as boating in the Sanctuary reservoir, boardwalk, sculpture garden, amphitheatre, Musical Dancing Fountain, etc. are also provided at Thenmala for soft ecotourists. An Environmental education and interpretation centre is also being set up at Thenmala.

In order to give flexibility in management for the development of this destination, a separate Society, the Thenmala Ecotourism Promotion Society (TEPS) has been constituted. Thenmala Ecotourism Promotion Society has adopted a strategy to co-ordinate with Forest Department, the Irrigation Department and Tourism Department and implement various activities in association with each Department. The products such as trekking, bird watching trails etc. are being developed and implemented through the institution of Eco-development Committees, thereby ensuring benefits to local people. From the very beginning, efforts have been taken to adopt the internationally accepted principles of ecotourism in the planning process as well as in the implementation. A conscious management strategy has been evolved to create a familiarization zone to limit the visitor impacts on the sensitive ecosystems to the minimum. With an investment to the tune of 1.6 million US Dollars, development took place over a period of three years.

The project was opened to the public in 1999 and is not yet fully commissioned. The Thenmala ecotourism project has recorded a growth rate of 81.95 per cent in tourist arrivals, in 2003-2004 and the resulting income during the same period has recorded an increase of 123.91 per cent. This shows the success of the project. Now the Government has started four more projects at various sanctuaries in the state and many projects are in the pipeline. Thenmala ecotourism is undoubtedly a learning experience for the development of other destinations in the state.

Dr Santosh P. Thampi (B. Tech, M.B.A, Ph. D Ecotourism) is Reader, Dept. of Commerce & Management Studies, University of Calicut, Kerala, India. His areas of interest are Ecotourism, Environmentally friendly construction and Management. Email

Zakynthos National Marine Park (ZNMP), Greece: Menacing Multi Million Euro Fine Works Fine!
by MEDASSET*

Backed into a corner, the Greek government has been forced to clean up its act before the European Commission's October deadline, or face the European Court of Justice (ECJ) and the imposition of a multi-million Euro fine for neglecting its commitments to the turtle nesting beaches of Laganas Bay (Zakynthos).

With less than two months to go before the deadline, as the bulk of tourists left the island having disrupted yet another crucial nesting season for the endangered Loggerhead sea turtles, Mrs Amalia Karagounis, the recently government-appointed President of the ZNMP, started to show her mettle.

With unprecedented government support for her position and just enough money to pay part of the wages owing to guards and ZNMP staff since 2003, she used her considerable skill to enforce almost all of the ECJ ruling's demands throughout the Bay (excluding the 'strictly protected' Daphne beach): daytime guards were posted on a number of beaches; information signs, kiosks and barriers preventing vehicle access were restored; illegal businesses were closed down; a port police post was established with regular patrols of the Bay, and a boat was brought in to patrol the sea; buoys delineating restricted areas were replaced; and on some beaches excess furniture was removed, although much mysteriously found its way back!

Zakynthos August 2005: Every Day hundreds of tourists dig out the clay from the rock face of the cliff (to use for 'spa' treatments), above the 'protected' nesting beach of Gerakas. As a consequence, the cliff face has collapsed three times with rocks the size of cars ending up on the beach.

The President has now turned her attention to the illegal buildings and tourist infrastructure on Daphne beach. Since the beginning of September, a bitter debate has raged between Mrs Karagounis and the Head of the Local Zakynthos Administration (Prefect). Eleven years after the Greek government ordered the buildings pulled down, and despite having signed the demolition order himself, the Prefect claims that it is not his job to do so, that the responsibility lies with the Government. His role is "not one of destruction", he said, but to protect the local inhabitants and foster the development and promotion of Zakynthos. He has suggested that to solve the problem the State should compensate those affected by conservation measures. "We are here to protect interests of local people in Daphne and those of the Greek State", he said, apparently forgetting that it was the laws of the Greek State that he was being asked to enforce! The President of the Park responded, saying: "Compensation to landowners should not be confused with demolition." Meanwhile, at the Greek Constitutional Court (07-09-05), Daphne landowners lost an appeal to remove restrictions (imposed by the Presidential Decree establishing the ZNMP) on private property development within the boundaries of the Park.

The ZNMP President is optimistic of receiving the 60,000 Euro, which has been owed to the Park since 2003 by the Mayor of Laganas and the Prefect of Zakynthos, for their share of a LIFE/ Nature EC project. She also hopes to take funds, as of next summer, for beach furniture rental tenders, and with this money run a self-financing Park. But is this possible? In January 2005 300,000 Euro was needed to cover the Park's debts (a figure which will have increased considerably since then). Since March 2004 funds have been promised repeatedly by the Ministry of Environment, in the Press and in Parliament, but until now only 190,000 Euro has been paid, barely covering back taxes and wage bills.

MEDASSET is the Mediterranean Association to Save the Sea Turtles
Web: www.medasset.gr - Email