ECOCLUBing in Shekhawati, Rajasthan, India

Shekhawati (the land of ruler Rao Shekaji 1433-1488) in Rajasthan, North Western India, is famous as the home to an extraordinary number of colourful, unique in the world wall paintings that adorn hundreds of buildings, called havelis, constructed by the Marwari community of merchants who have been a backbone of entrepreneurship in India since the 19th century. The frescoes also decorate temples, cenotaphs, wells and forts. The area was arid and local opportunities limited, and thus the entrepreneurial inhabitants eventually moved out of Shekhawati and into other towns, leaving behind the picturesque walls. The murals slowly decayed, and became covered with graffiti and even whitewashed. Lack of proper water drainage resulted in water seeping down to the streets and to the precarious foundations of the buildings. The walls of many havelis, were punctured to set up stalls and workshops while finely carved woodwork found its way to antiques dealers shops.  Some havelis were even purposely demolished to make way for modern buildings.

Enter Ramesh Jangid, owner of one of ECOCLUB's oldest Ecolodge Members, Apani Dhani, in Nawalgarh. Ramesh uses proceeds from Apani Dhani Ecolodge, and Alternative Travels India to restore tradition through helping and educating the local community. A native of Rajasthan, he lived in Europe for many years, before returning to create Alternative Travels in 1986 and Apani Dhani four years later. Upon his return to India he became acutely aware of the need to develop responsible tourism, one which would combine a deep respect for the culture and people with an authentic experience for the foreign traveler. The courtyard with the restaurant on the rightFor the past 14 years, Ramesh has tried to make his guests participate in Indian daily life, particularly rural life. He emphasises the importance of real personal contact with local people, believing that this is the only way for non-Indians to gain genuine insight into a culture as diverse and complex.

Apani Dhani's nine bungalows are meticulously constructed  in the same spirit, in a traditional way: pampas grass (local plant) is used for thatching the roofs of the huts. Sun dried clay bricks, mudplaster and ochre from the nearby mountains are utilised for wall construction and decoration. All the rooms are beautifully decorated with local handicrafts and feature  full bathroom facilities. All bungalows use solar panels for electricity.

Pro-community  Apani Dhani is the force behind the Friends of Shekhawati, a local NGO. Among other things, with the coordination of local teachers, this association organises and finances direct actions in the schools, conferences, slide - shows, outings to selected sites, photo-contests and training for young guides including tuition in English and French, basic courses in local history and architecture: many teenagers and even children, instead of going to school, find it more lucrative to "guide" tourists around. Not knowing English and, of course, not having any historical or architectural knowledge they simply show the tourists around, hoping for a good tip, sometimes turning aggressive when they do not get it. The association recently granted a scholarship to 12 students to help them become registered guides.

Pro Environment Apani Dhani makes a point of using renewable energy sources and recycling. There is a solar water heating system, solar panels for electricity, a bio-gas plant producing methane gas, a solar oven occasionally used for cooking rice and lentils. Water conservation measures have been installed for bathing and flushing. Mineral water and fruit juices are bought in glass bottles which are taken back by the dealer and leaf plates are used to serve the meals. Along with leftover food, those are given to the animals or composted. Used paper is turned into papier mache.

Things to do in Shekhawati:

One can chose from day outings to appreciate the most representative elements of Shekhawati architecture : the havelis and their wall paintings, cenotaphes, impressive wells, trekking in the Arawalli range to discover remote hamlets and holy places and strolling in the surrounding countryside in a camel cart. The most important sites are: Nawalgarh (where Apani Dhani is located): founded in 1737 by Nawal Singh. Has some of the best preserved havelis and finest frescoes in Shekhawati. Worth seeing are the Aath havelis (eight havelis) complex, Murarka haveli, Bansidhar Bhagat haveli, Chokhani haveli, Gangamai temple and Podar school, the only haveli in the whole Shekhawati which has been restored by its owner. Fatehpur: established in 1451, once the capital of muslim Nawabs before beeing taken over by Shekhawat rajputs in the 18th century. Laxmangarh One of the most imposing forts in the region, built in the early 19th century. The city is laid out on a gridpattern which makes your way easy to find. One of the least visited towns, even though it has many interesting buildings. Mahansar founded in 1768. Not many havelis here but one of the most exquisite ones, the Sone-Chandi ki Dukan dating from 1846. Incorporates gold leaf in its intricate paintings. This haveli has three vaulted ceilings; scenes from the Ramayana are painted on the left one, incarnations of Vishnu on the centre one, and scenes from the life of Krishna are to be found on the right one. Ramgarh Founded in 1791, it has been one of the richest towns at the end of the 19th century.

Apani Dhani Latest News:

Ramesh informs us that Apani Dhani has just got a face lift: a complete restoration of thatched roofs of all the huts, the whole complex got a new coat of ochre, one additional single room was added, flowers were planted in the court yard and a "wormicompost" method was started with earth worms. What are you waiting for?

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