ECOCLUB^®

ISSN 1108-8931

International Ecotourism Monthly

Year 4, Issue 41, Oct. 2002

ECOCLUBing in Jamaica

Xaymaca, or land of springs, is the Arawak name from which Jamaica derives and which accurately described this completely forested island to Columbus who upon arrival in 1494 noted it was "the fairest isle that eyes beheld". The Arawak have long perished through ilness and slavery, leaving behind a few words such as "hammock" and the X in Jamaica's flag. The rainforest cover of this densely populated mountainous island (228 inhabitants per km2), also perished, being replaced by sugar plantations and the Spanish and then British slave masters replaced the Arawaks with Africans, the descendants of whom today comprise Jamaica's proud population. The forest cover now has retreated to just 6% but Jamaica has not lost its attraction as pristine beaches, reefs, thermal springs waterfalls and rivers abound. But the main attraction perhaps is the people: Jamaica has become a cultural beacon for the rest of the Caribbean mainly through reggae and rastafarianism, the religious sect associated with the reggae lifestyle, and also influences style in metropolises such as London and New York, as about as many Jamaicans live outside their island as inside (2.7 million).

The principal mountain range is the Blue Mountains, where the greatly sought by coffee aficionados Blue Mountain Coffee is grown, peaking at 2,256 metres and creating a large plateau ranging from east to west of the island. The Blue Mountains encompass a national park established in 1989 and comprising 200,000 acres. Weatherwise, the climate is maritime tropical (i.e. pleasant and healthy) and there is little regional and seasonal variation in rainfall and in temperature with the exception of high altitudes. Jamaica geologically has always been an island and thus has a high degree of endemism and biodiversity. 27% of its 3,000 plant species only grow here. Mammals are a lot fewer though. Small numbers of wild hogs are to be found in remote areas while there are over 20 species of bats, that tend to prefer living inside one of the many caves. The only native land mammal is the endangered Jamaican hutia which resembles a guinea pig. Imported (from India) mongooses, are also common and help control the also imported mice. Crocodiles are found in wetlands and mangrove systems in the south coast, iguanas survive in remote backwaters, and there are plenty of non-poisonous snakes. Birdlife however is the main wildlife attraction and it is prolific. The 25 endemic bird species include the Streamer-Tailed Hummingbird, purple mango Hummingbird, Jamaican Yellow billed Amazon, Orangequit, Jamaican Tody, Jamaican Owl, Greater Antillean Bullfinch, Jamaican Becard, and Yellow-breasted bananaquits.

Jamaica's reefs are rich especially along the north coast. They support sinuous boulder-like brain corals, soft-flowering corals and over 700 species of fish. Marine turtles find Jamaica's beaches appealing as nest sites, although they find hunters and beach tourists less appealing. The endangered manatee may be seen hiding in swamps in the island's south, or better let it hide there.

Tourism is Jamaica's most important industry, offering everything seen above, including world class golf facilities. It is the country's largest foreign exchange earner, generating as much as $1 billion annually and is still one of its fastest growing industries. Mass tourism has developed in spite of the island's unfair reputation for violence which is largely confined to the capital during elections or after the occasional tax hike on petrol. Tourism was jumpstarted by Errol Flynn (who bought Navy Island off Port Antonio) and his friends in the 1940s and 1950s, while a steady stream of Hollywood movies (including that Blue Lagoon one) and of course thousands of reggae video clips have been filmed in Jamaica ever since, offering free publicity but also stereotyping. In the 1960s the Hippies discovered Jamaica, followed by package tourists in the late 1970s and 1980s. The 1990s among other things saw the establishment of controversial all-inclusive resorts, with rather debauched morals for this largely pious island. So called "Hustlers" are to be found in all the touristy areas trying to scrape a living from selling legal and illegal products to tourists, with many tourists opting for the illegal ones and police looking the other way. Nevertheless the real Jamaica can be found by the patient ecotourist.

In the last 10 years Jamaica has started dealing with its environmental problems in a concerted way. In 1992, The Nature Conservancy and the Jamaica Conservation and Development Trust (JCDT) worked together to establish the Blue and John Crow Mountains National Park — Jamaica's first terrestrial park. The Conservancy also arranged a debt-for-nature swap in which the U.S. government decreased Jamaica's debt to free up funds for a national parks trust fund managed by JCDT. Already 8% of the total land is protected (about 80,000 ha) and about 5,700 ha of wetlands are protected under the Ramsar Convention. Still much needs to be done as mining for bauxite - Jamaica is one of the top producers - during the last 50 years has polluted some rivers and decimated parts of the countryside. Agricultural expansion on to the hills of Jamaica has increased erosion and loss of both habitat and topsoil. Pollution and development is also effecting the fragile coral reefs of Jamaica and in particular Mangrove ecosystems that are usually considered a nuisance by resort developers. Mangroves of course take revenge when the artificial beach is suddenly washed away one day. The capital city of Kingston has to deal with air pollution - an unusual problem for a small island. Corals are still  exported, but attempts are being made to stop that.

The beaches in Jamaica are the most widely used natural resources throughout the year. Jamaica also has three mineral spas: Rockfort, Milk River and Bath. These are very popular with local families and group excursions. Jamaica has about 28 significant offshore islands and cays, the majority of which are off the island's south coast, but have escaped development. Around the north coast and along sections of the south coast long coral reef chains that provide habitat for numerous species of flora and fauna. These are excellent recreational areas that are known for diving and glass-bottom boat viewing. The principal resort areas are located in the island's north coast where wind and wave action, which smash down on the offshore coral reefs, help to develop and sustain impressive white sand beaches. The beaches along the south coast of the island tend not to be as attractive as those along the north coast. The beaches along the south coast are built up more of river sand, are typically brown, and are less stable than those of the north coast. Ocho Rios in the North has traditionally been the stop point for Cruise Ships but is now losing out to Montego Bay. Good for Ocho Rios.

In addition to the beautiful beaches along the countries coastal areas, the scenic waterfalls and rivers have also been a major tourist attraction. Several of Jamaica's swift-flowing rivers have been developed as recreational attractions, the legend goes that it was Errol Flynn's idea to convert the banana carrying rafts into passenger rafts. One of the many "developed" water falls is the Dunn's River Falls. It forms the central point of a landscaped park, with a well-developed public bathing beach and craft shopping area. And it is usually crowded with obese cruise tourists performing a rather dangerous ritual climbing up the waterfall's "steps". Careful.

Ecotourism has been recently accepted by Jamaica's planners. The government's launched a Master Plan for Sustainable Tourism in June 2001. In September 2002, the Ministry of Tourism and Sport held its annual Tourism Achievement Awards ceremony, presenting plaques to six organisations that made "significant contributions to the development of ecotourism in Jamaica". The recipients of this year's awards were:  Royal Palm Reserve in Westmoreland, The Jamaica Conservation and Development Trust administrators of Hollywell Recreational Park, the Natural History Society of Jamaica, Bird Life Jamaica and Montego Bay Marine Park and the Browne Family, owners and operators of the YS Falls attraction. And as dem say, Jamaica is a Irie likkle place.

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