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Babu Muhammad: A Seasoned Tour Guide of Northern Pakistan

Babu Muhammad (1930-2022) was a renowned tour guide in the Northern Pakistan region, covering Hindukush, Karakoram, and Himalayas. Born into a notable family in the Mroi village, he grew up in the village, located as a gateway to Upper Chitral. The village had a modest hotel industry, primarily serving the influx of tourists, especially foreign travelers, particularly during the hippie era from the 1960s to the 1980s.

Recognizing the opportunity, young Babu Muhammad established a hotel roadside beneath the cooling shade of chinar trees. His hotel not only flourished but also facilitated his connection with foreign tourists and expedition members, enhancing his network in the tourism industry. Interactions with visitors sparked his interest in professional guiding.

Despite minimal formal education (not completing his matriculation), Babu Muhammad possessed functional English, honed through interactions with tourists during his guiding services. His remarkable knowledge of peaks, distances, passes, and routes was unparalleled, with details at his fingertips.

During my tenure at the Chitral Association for Mountain Area Tourism (CAMAT), based in the Mountain Inn, I frequently engaged in discussions with Babu Muhammad. He was an active member of CAMAT's Board of Directors, attending meetings regularly and contributing invaluable practical insights into the tourism industry.

References in guidebooks like Lonely Planet and Footprints and many others attest to the authenticity of Babu Muhammad's guiding ethics and his dedication to the groups he led. In recognition of his five decades of service as a tour guide, a foreign expedition honored him by naming the fourth and final basecamp "Babu Camp" during the Terichmir Expedition, evidence to his lasting impact on the region's tourism.

During summer, foreign tourists frequently camped in Babu Muhammad's Garden in Mrio village. Impressed by his English skills, they asked him to accompany them to Terich as an interpreter, where their guide, Maulai Jan (late), would meet them. Babu Muhammad agreed and journeyed with them to Drasan, crossing Zani Aan (3886m) to reach Zondrangram, where Maulai Jan awaited. This trip, called the Oxford Expedition to Mt. Saraghrar (7350 m), aimed to conquer the uncharted mountain from the Rosh Gol side. Sadly, the expedition ended due to the accidental death of Peter Nelson, a team member. Upon their return, the team expressed gratitude to Babu Muhammad by presenting him with a certificate of appreciation. This experience marked his entry into the tourism profession. Babu Muhammad then began participating in expeditions as an interpreter, gradually gaining expertise in mountain terrain and eventually becoming a seasoned tourist guide. 

In 1964, Babu Muhammad joined an Austrian expedition to explore the Udren Valley in Terich. During the expedition, they climbed several peaks including Udren Zom, Kohe Shakhawar, and Nadir Shah, giving Babu Muhammad his first taste of high-altitude mountain terrain. The next year, he joined another Austrian expedition led by Dr. Gruber to conquer Buni Zom (6,842 m). In 1966, he accompanied a three-member Austrian team led by Hanns Schell to Ujnu Gol, successfully ascending the peak known as Akherchio alongside his wife and another companion.

In 1967, Dr. Gruber led an expedition to explore various peaks for future climbers. Babu Muhammad joined them in Torkhow, where they scaled peaks in Ujnu and Rech before crossing the Shah Jinali pass into the Yarkhun Valley. While planning to head to Gilgit via Darkhot or Thui passes, they were instructed by district authorities to return to Chitral. At Mastuj, they opted for an alternate route through Swat or Chitral via the Lowari pass. Unfortunately, they encountered a tragic accident while crossing Dalum Gol, leaving Mrs. Gruber injured and Babu Muhammad with a broken leg. After receiving treatment in Peshawar, he returned home, still recovering from the accident.

In 1968, another Austrian expedition led by Dr. Stamm arrived in Chitral to conquer Koyo Zom in Yarkhun. Due to Babu Muhammad's limited mobility, they arranged a horse for him while they ascended the peak. In 1969, Dr. Gruber visited Chitral specifically to see him. They journeyed to the Terichmir Base Camp in the Oweer valley and traversed the mountain to Lot Kuh Valley.

In 1971, he joined a tour group from ARAMCO (Arab-American Oil Company), Saudi Arabia, for a trip to Gilgit and Hunza, organized by Sitara Travels based in Rawalpindi. After the trip, Sitara Travels offered him a job, which he accepted and worked with them until 1989.

In that year, "Hindukush Trails" was established, and he joined the organization and started with Shahzada Maqsood ul Mulk, the owner of the company. However, the heyday of tourism in Chitral and other parts of northern Pakistan had passed, making it a challenging period for his career. Despite this, he had the opportunity to visit the UK during this time. A British company, Karakorum Experience, collaborated with Hindukush Trails and arranged a tour for Babu Muhammad to England, Scotland, and Iceland in 1993. In 1998, Dr. Gruber arranged another visit to Europe for him, where he explored Austria and Germany.

In 2004, Babu Muhammad led a UNESCO documentary team to Chitral Association for Mountain Area Tourism (CAMAT) for their project, "Between Mountain and Sky." The team, headed by British filmmaker Michael Patrick and including Pakistani crew members, was joined by myself for fieldwork. During our visit to Booni, we filmed a polo match arranged for the documentary, with Shahzada Riaz Jilani (late) of Bombagh Fort as the chief guest. He graciously invited the guest the following day. After capturing footage at Zani Pass, we returned to Bumbagh fort where the late prince hosted a lavish feast for the guests.

Throughout his fifty years in the tourism industry, he had the pleasure of working with people from all over the world, each with their own unique traits that enriched his experience and learning.

He was content and happy with his profession. He had incredible experiences in the mountains, witnessing breathtaking landscapes and meeting amazing people. He was honored to have the most important mountaineering base camp in Trichmir named after him—the "Babu Camp." Despite witnessing the ups and downs of the tourism industry in Chitral, he remained hopeful for its future. According to him, the HKH region and Chitral has immense potential for tourism with the capability to transform the region's economy rapidly.

Babu Muhammad passed away in his hometown "Mroi" in 2022 and during this year I met him for the last time when I was trekking from Chitral town to Booni. He was feeling pain in his leg and was very happy to see me. I communicated the good wishes of many people from Chitral town and he well received them. 

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