80 years ago, on this day, December 3, 1944, and for a month, Athens became a battlefield. Extreme positions and cruelty on both sides, plus the hand of outside powers keen, as always, on dividing and ruling led to thousands of deaths, followed by tens of thousands in the ensuing Greek Civil war 1946-1949, which still poisons political life in Gree...
When visiting a cultural or natural site, many rush past, some look, few see. A humble waterfall in the centre of Athens' National Garden is a favourite spot of mine as you just can hear soothing water sounds in ultra stereo mode while relaxing on a strategically placed bench. Tourists, couples, small groups, and the occasional horde ...
Literally translating to flour-smudging, Alevromoutzouroma is a traditional flour throwing festival taking place every Clean Monday (the Monday marking the beginning of Lent) in the historic port of Galaxidi (Map) Central Greece. Galaxidi was an strategic fortified stronghold since antiquity controlling trade routes in the ...
Amfissa, a town going back three millennia, 20 km from the famous Oracle of Delphi, has had a complicated history, occupied by and/or fiercely resisting Persians, Macedonians, Romans, Knights of St. John, Catalans, Ottomans and Nazis. New empires and religions left their mark but failed to erase ancient customs, which, as in other parts of Greece, are particularly evident during the "Apokries" (Carnival) season, that lasts four weeks sometime between early February to late March, depending on Easter day. One of the most famous 'pagan' feasts, officially part of the "intangible cultural heritage of Greece", is the Harmaina Ghost of Amfissa (Το στοιχειό της Χάρμαινας στην Άμφισσα). The modernised version of the feast, based on local oral traditions, was revived in 1995 and is performed annually since. It starts on the eve of the last Friday of the Carnival and ends 24 hours later. You will see street processions by men, women and children and a performance featuring three giant monsters/ghosts, each representing a borough of Amfissa and the "kodonoforoi" (bell-wearers) skin-wearing, goat-like figures reminiscent of the god Pan, with bells sewn in their uniforms, as the town was also famous for its bell-makers who produced enough sheep bells for the...
Koutouki Cave, about 2 million years in the making by the karst phenomenon (chemical deposition of calcium carbonate through dripping water) on the eastern side of Mt. Hymettus at 510m asl, was accidentally discovered in 1926 when a goat disappeared through a crack and started bleating. The lucky goat survived what today wo...
Going to the theatre is always a pleasure. Going to the "world's first theatre" is a pilgrimage. The Theatre of Dionysus in Athens (Map), is the place where Greek Theatre was born both as an art and an architectural form. The classical Greek comedies and tragedies of the late 5th century were written and produced with this speci...
While you are waiting for your ship to go to the islands, do not miss the Archaeological Museum of Piraeus, a short 10-minute walk away. It is right next to the ancient theatre of the city, which also serves as the museum courtyard. Piraeus, featuring three safe, deepwater ports, was originally a rocky island (etymology anc. Pireefs ...
Unlike most other metropoles Athens has so far resisted skyscrapers, the idea being not to block one of the best views in the world, especially if you are fond of direct democracy, the Parthenon. (The military dictatorship (1967-74) that was not particularly fond, did allow two tallish buildings!). In this spirit, a court l...
Crete, Greece: Crete's Culinary Sanctuaries Educational Network, 5-Day Seminars on Biodiversity and Gastronomy. Dates: May 2-7, 2022 or September 12-17, 2022 An experiential learning program with expert presentations at historic sites, nature reserves, and visits with award-winning organic farmers, olive oil producers and vintners. Discover the com...
Crete, Greece: Crete's Culinary Sanctuaries Educational Network 5-Day Seminars on Biodiversity and Gastronomy. Dates: September 20-25 and October 11-16, 2021. An experiential learning program with expert presentations at historic sites, nature reserves, and visits with award-winning organic farmers, olive oil producers and vintners. Discover t...
