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The Mayan site of Nim Li Punit, Belize

Now that Belize's Southern Highway has been completed the site at Nim Li Punit is more accessible than ever. It is located just north of the village of Indian Creek with its entrance off to the right when approaching from the north. It is one of the more modest archaeological sites in terms of the size of the standing structures but the site is most well known for the abundance of carved stelae discovered there.

The visitors’ centre houses a number of these including one 9 metres in length. It is the largest carved stela in Belize and the second largest in the Mayan world. This stela depicts some of the history of the region and one of its rulers whose elaborate head-dress gives the site its modern name which translates as “Big Hat”.

Adriano Mas in front of the ball court at Nim Li PunitAdriano Mas in front of the ball court at Nim Li PunitWithin the excavated areas of the site further stelae have been left in their original locations and are protected by palm thatched roofs. The Mat stela is part of the south group and is depicted on the face of the Belize two dollar note although its location is not identified there.

The archaeological reserve covers 121 acres in total of which just a few have been cleared and excavated. One can only wonder about how much more awaits discovery. The same is true at Lubaantun and throughout much of Belize leading to the conclusion that so far just a small proportion of Belize’s archaeological secrets have been unearthed.

The warden is Adriano Mas from Indian Creek village. Mr Mas has worked here for the past nine years. At weekends he tends his own plantation. He is presently serving as alcalde (local magistrate) for the village so his evenings are pretty busy too. Walking through the site with Adriano it is easy to see why this location was inhabited. Present day Indian Creek village lies at the bottom of the hill and then to the east lies the vast expanse of the coastal jungle plain. This extends right up to the water’s edge in Port Honduras. The sea and cayes, ten miles distant, are all clearly visible from the site.

Ancient Nim Li Punit would have had easy access to the sea and the ancient salt works at Punta Negra. Westwards they would have had trade access with modern day Guatemala through the valley occupied by the modern villages of San Antonio, Santa Cruz and Pueblo Viejo. Inscriptions on stelae point to political and social links with Copan in Honduras about two hundred miles to the south.

Like so many archaeological sites in Belize Nim Li Punit is carefully tended by the warden and his assistant and large forest trees grow among the ruins.

Tomb 1 excavated in 1986Tomb 1 excavated in 1986Nim Li Punit is a wonderful place for birding either early in the morning or towards dusk. Groups of a dozen or more keel-billed toucans have been seen. A parrot and a palebilled woodpecker may fight over a nesting hole excavated by the woodpecker but coveted by the parrot. It is a great spot to see many of the species that live below the canopy of the rainforest.

Nim Li Punit was opened to the public in 1976. In 1986 Richard Leventhal, Professor of Anthropology at the University of Pennsylvania, opened up Tomb 1. The last major excavation and consolidation took place in 1998 but there will be some work going on at the site from May to July this year.

 

Information:
Nim Li Punit is open 365 days a year.
Opening hours: 7am to 5pm
Entrance Fee BZ$10
Telephone 665-6126

Rob Hirons
The Lodge at Big Falls, PO Box 103, Punta Gorda, Toledo, Belize, Central America
http://www.thelodgeatbigfalls.com
 

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