By Lindsay Milich
Culinary tourism represents a rapidly growing field that is increasingly being incorporated into tourism strategies worldwide (ICTA, 2011). New global trends in tourism also indicate a desire for personalized experiences and authenticity (Jahn & Thomson, 2009, p. 142). Savvy destinations have responded to these trends by emphasizing activities and products that are central to the local culture and lifestyle, such as the cuisine. The benefits of promoting culinary traditions in this way are numerous. Some such benefits include the preservation of important traditions that may otherwise have disappeared, and the provision of an avenue for travelers to gain an in-depth and unique understanding of their host culture.
While culinary tourism can be described in a variety of contexts, the International Culinary Tourism Association provides a general definition of the activity as “the pursuit of unique and memorable culinary experiences” (ICTA, 2011). So whether you consider yourself a true “foodie” or not, chances are that you have at some point found yourself seeking an interesting and authentic culinary experience during your travels, either at home or abroad. I myself am a self proclaimed food and wine enthusiast, greatly excited by the prospect of exploring a culture through its food. So it came as no surprise that while on a recent trip to Santorini, Greece, an investigation of the vibrant local food scene quickly became a focal point of the trip. Around every corner I was repeatedly rewarded with outstanding and memorable culinary experiences.
Tourism has had an indelible impact on the economy and lifestyle of Santorini, especially in the time since the island was devastated by an earthquake in 1956 (Miller et al., 2010). Famous for its blue-domed churches and picturesque sunsets, Santorini is one of the most popular destinations in the Mediterranean. Thousands of island hopping travelers and cruise ship “daytrippers” traverse the 12 mile long island every year. These visitors contribute significantly to the local economy, especially during the summer months when the population nearly doubles. However, this annual influx of visitors is not without some negative implications. From a local perspective, tourism can also be seen as a bane to residents, and a strain on the local environment’s limited resources (Könemann, 2004). Visitors to Santorini are typically concentrated in the port of Athinios, where the ferry and cruise ships arrive/depart, the central district of Fira, and the famously picturesque town of Oia in the northern tip of the island.
Oia, Santorini
During my experience in Oia I found that the town still maintains its traditional beauty and charm, though the masses of tourists are surely creating a strain on the local environment. Thus, while tourism here is associated with both positive and negative repercussions, one can see that the local economy depends – and thrives even – on this sector. This presents a tricky balance, where tourism exists as a lucrative sector, as well as a threat to the local environment and traditional culture. In Santorini the responsibility of maintaining this balance lies with all stakeholders – local authorities and policy makers, local communities, and of course the traveler.
The ways in which one can travel responsibly are numerous. The demand for authentic local travel experiences has led to a flow of ideas and creativity on the subject of “going local.” One way of doing this is through culinary travel. Of course, the benefits of culinary tourism are not inherent in a name, but in practice. A culinary tourist can leave a positive or negative impact depending on the way they conduct themselves, the way they view their surroundings, and the choices they make during their travels. However, the responsible culinary tourist can enjoy a unique channel for deep exploration and understanding of a destination and its people.
Culinary traditions in Santorini
While every place has some form of cuisine that can be explored, there are places where the cuisine is so exceptional, exciting, accessible, and culturally rooted, that it can become a focal point of travel and a primary attraction for the culinary tourist. Santorini is one such place, where the great local food and existing culinary customs can be viewed as a real asset.
The people of Santorini have smartly taken note of foreign interest in their local products, and nearly every menu in Oia features local specialties such as tomato fritters, sautéed wild greens, fava bean puree, grilled octopus, and some form of local white wine -usually of the prominent Assyrtico variety. Other specialties and noteworthy local products that can be found around the island include capers, sweet sun-dried tomatoes, white eggplant, local cheeses, and a special sweet made from almonds soaked in honey (koufeto). Local bakeries and cafes boast cases teeming with inviting pastries – both sweet and savory – such as vegetable pies enveloped in filo dough, spice cakes, and custard filled pastries. A tart called melitinia is available at Easter time, and is unique to the island; molded into a star shape, it is filled with myzithra cheese and flavored with spices, orange, and mastic (Santorini Info, 2011).
The fisherman’s catch
In Santorini and elsewhere in the Cyclades, small scale fishing has traditionally represented the lifeblood of the community. In every seaside village or taverna the local ‘fisherman’s culture’ is palpable; small wooden boats bob just offshore, and fishermen congregate in the afternoon sun passing the time.
Seafood supplies here are proving increasingly scarce however, as high tourism demands in the summer months often exceed the level of fish that can be sustainably harvested from local waters (Könemann, 2004). Large commercial fishing operations, no doubt encouraged by touristic demand, create serious competition for local fisherman. These large fleets often encroach on waters traditionally fished by individuals and small communities, lessening the fisherman’s daily catch and threatening the long term sustainability of this lifestyle (Könemann, 2004).
Thirasia port
On an afternoon excursion to the island of Thirasia, which has been far less touched by tourism than nearby Santorini, I was given an opportunity to support the local fishing community by dining at one of the numerous seaside tavernas that line the shore. Divided from mainland Santorini by volcanic activity around 200 BC, Thirasia now appears as a separate island. These restaurants survive on income generated from the tourists who arrive daily as part of a popular boat tour which includes stops at Nea Kameni (the most recent formation of the volcano, Nea Kameni protrudes from the caldera as a small islet and still spews lava occasionally), a swimming area with natural hot springs, and Thirasia. In Thirasia, a small fishing village with less than 200 residents, visitors can take a donkey ride up the 250 steps leading to the village, or just sit in a taverna by the sea for a couple of hours enjoying delicious local fare and fresh seafood.
Cadouni Taverna, Thirasia
It is here, in a casual open-air taverna, that I had one of the most memorable experiences of my trip: sitting at a table just inches away from the sea, I ordered a glass of ouzo and the octopus souvlaki (my choice was easy – upon passing through the restaurant I was enticed by a meaty skewer of fresh octopus smoking on the open grill). The meal was unpretentious in portion and appearance, but was indescribably fresh and savory – the best I’ve ever had. The experience was made all the better by the quintessentially Cycladic setting: warm sunshine, Aegean breeze, and fishermen quietly taking their small colorful boats out to sea. Munching on my perfectly tender octopus, dressing each bite by swirling it in a dish of regional olive oil, I considered my gratitude to the resident fishermen and local cooks for this unique experience.
Santorini’s unique terroir yields rich flavors
Back in Oia, I enjoyed the fruits of Santorini’s volcanic soil, which is rich in nutrients and agriculturally significant for its ability to retain moisture in an arid environment. This porous volcanic rock absorbs water from the sea, as well as from whatever bit of rain happens to fall during the autumn and winter months, and distributes it gradually to the island’s plants and vines. Cultivation in Santorini sets it apart from most other islands in the Cyclades, where the dry climate, rocky soil, and strong Aegean winds limit agricultural production (Könemann, 2004).
Along the main pedestrian walkway of Oia, Nikolaou Nomikou, men and women can be found selling home prepared jars of local products such as sun dried tomatoes, capers, preserved grape leaves, and honey-soaked almonds. When in season, vendors market their prickly pears by offering passersby a sweet sample of the fruit. The prickly pear was introduced to the islands by Spanish sailors around 1600, and has remained for its ability to grow in the dry environment of the Cyclades (Könemann, 2004).
Nikolaou Nomikou, Main walkway in Oia
In the markets near the bus stop, shop owners hand out samples of sesame coated almonds and locally grown pistachios. Inside these shops one can find more local products, packaged to take home amidst shelves of souvenirs, as well as a selection of local wines. In one shop, I inquired as to the best of the selection on display, and was directed to try a white wine from Domaine Sigalas which, I was pleased to find out, was ‘just down the hill’. The next day I hopped in a taxi and traveled a few kilometers to this small winery which is internationally recognized for its wines, made from regional grapes such as Assyrtico, Aidani, Athiri, Mandilaria and Mavrotragano.
Santorini is unique in the Cycladic region for its ability to produce wine. With the exception of Paros, other islands in this cluster are characterized by soil inadequate for extensive grape growing. Viticulture in Santorini dates back three thousand years continuously (Domaine Sigalas, 2011), and would have extended even further had it not been for the massive eruption in 1600 BC which devastated the island and pre-existing agriculture (Könemann, 2004).
Santorini is best known for its white wines, and indeed these varieties are most prevalent. White wine grapes account for 80% of the region’s vineyards. However, my personal favorite was the Mavrotragano, a dry, robust red. This grape, indigenous to the island, has come close to extinction, leading some local wineries to make a concerted effort to revive the species (Domaine Sigalas, 2011). The sweet dessert wines of Santorini are also delicious; they are unfortified, and made from grapes that have been set out in the sun for several days. This process allows the sugars and flavors of the grape to become deeply concentrated. All of the wines I tasted evoked a strong sense of the local terroir. I was happy to later discover that several of the wines I sampled at Sigalas would be available upon my return home through a local distributor. However, I’m sure that no matter how vivid my recollection, I could not replicate the exact experience of tasting these wines at the source of their production.
Domaine Sigalas
Discovering local treasures
Though there are numerous culinary excursions that one can plan when on Santorini, some of the most memorable moments are to be had when you allow yourself to just sit back and take in the pleasant serendipity of the island. One evening, my travel companions and I encountered a bit of misfortune – nothing serious, just one of the inevitable inconveniences of travel, and one which left us without a room for the night. The hotel owner at Chelidonia Villas took pity on us and offered us a traditional cliff-side villa that happened to be vacant due to a last minute cancellation. A mysterious man of few words, our host’s kindness was evident through subtleties. He handed us the key to our new residence with a welcoming smile and kindly informed us that there was a bottle of Sigalas Assyrtico chilling in the fridge, which we should open immediately to “forget all about our troubles”. And for tomorrow, perhaps he would bring us a sample of his homemade wine.
A room with a view at Chelidonia Villas
The next afternoon as we sat on our porch happily gazing at the view over the caldera, our humble host arose from the white steps below with a small carafe of amber-red wine. The wine was sweet and complex, a blend made from three local varieties. We enjoyed it immensely. Knowing that we could not later order a bottle of this delicious wine online, or pick it up from a local distributor upon our return home, we sat back and enjoyed the experience, completely content in the moment. To me, this is a key component to culinary tourism – embracing memorable experiences that are truly evocative of a place and which we cannot necessarily take with us in any form other than nostalgia. These moments are unique to the destination or the trip, and the reason why we travel.
References:
Goeldner, C., & Ritchie, J. R. (2006). Tourism principles, practices, philosophies. Hoboken, NJ: John Wiley & Sons, Inc.
Konemann (2004). Culinaria Greece: Greek Specialties.Tandem Verlag GmbH.
Miller, K., Clark, M., Deliso, C., Hannigan D., Kyriakopoulos V. (2010). Greek Islands. Lonely Planet.
Domaine Sigalas (2011). Retrieved from http://sigalas-wine.com/.
Greeka (2011). Santorini Island. Retrieved from http://www.greeka.com/.
Santorini Info (2011). Local Products and Dishes. Retrieved from http://www.santorini.info/.
The International Culinary Tourism Association (2011). Retrieved from http://www.culinarytraveller.com/.
It was the sole photography award announced during the media awards luncheon held December 8th as part of Caribbean Week festivities in Toronto. Storm took the photo in Guyana, South America (part of the CTO), on a fall 2009 trip organized by the Guyana Sustainable Tourism Initiative (GSTI), a joint initiative of the Guyana Tourism Authority and USAID-Guyana Trade and Investment Support (GTIS) program. Judy Karwacki of Small Planet Consulting was acting as the director of tourism for the GSTI at the time and invited Storm to join the group.
At the awards ceremony, Sylma Brown Bramble, the CTO’s director of marketing for the Americas, said, “The winners today were recognized for their contributions to Caribbean storytelling, as their articles evoked and brought to life highlights of the Caribbean to their readers.” This is the fourth award Storm has received from the CTO. Previous awards include best online article in North America and twice Canadian travel writer of the year. Storm’s other Caribbean honours include excellence in Caribbean travel writing from the Travel Media Association of Canada.
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